(Throw Version, 12.5”x 36.5” block)

 

Supplies:

Newsprint

Fabric

Ruler

Pencil

Rotary cutter

iron

 

Assembly:

1. Using the newsprint, construct a 12.5”x 36.5” base piece of paper.Use a ruler to draw in your seam allowances.  (Or, conversely, draw a 12”x 36” rectangle and add quarter inch seam allowances around each edge as you go. Another alternate that is less unwieldy is to make 2 pieces 12.5x 18.5” pieces and make the joining spot a point of a mountain.  If you choose this options, draw the ¼” seam allowances on each piece.)

2. Use the ruler to sketch your mountains.   (Note: this will ensure your mountain points don’t vanish into seam allowances.)

3. Start assembly on one side of the paper.  Begin with the scrap that is appropriate (mountain or background).  Pin to paper, allotting at least a ¼” seam allowance. (You are pinning to the side without the lines, wrong side touching the paper.

4.  Shorten your stitch length.  Take the next piece, lay it right side to right side, lining up the edge with the seam allowance of the first piece.  If you are worried that the piece won’t fit, pin the seam allowance, flip the fabric back and the unit up to the light.  MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH EXTRA FOR AT LEAST ¼” SEAM ALLOWANCE ON ALL SIDES. Sew along the marked line.  Flip the fabric over and press the seam with a dry iron.

5. Fold the next seam back after you have pinned the fabric which was just sewn on.  Using a ruler, trim the seam allowance to a ¼”. Then take the next piece of fabric and line up with the seam allowance you just trimmed.  Repeat.

6.  If necessary, at the end, trim pieces to appropriate size.

(Mini Version, 6.5”x18.5” block)

 

Supplies:

Newsprint

Fabric

Ruler

Pencil

Rotary cutter

iron

 

Assembly:

1. Using the newsprint, construct a 6.5”x 18.5” base piece of paper. Use a ruler to draw in your seam allowances.  (Another alternate that is less unwieldy is to make 2 pieces 6.5x 9.5” pieces and make the joining spot a point of a mountain.  If you choose this options, draw the ¼” seam allowances on each piece.)

 

2. Use the ruler to sketch your mountains.   (Note: this will ensure your mountain points don’t vanish into seam allowances.)

 

3. Start assembly on one side of the paper.  Begin with the scrap that is appropriate (mountain or background).  Pin to paper, allotting at least a ¼” seam allowance. (You are pinning to the side without the lines, wrong side touching the paper.

 

4.  Shorten your stitch length.  Take the next piece, lay it right side to right side, lining up the edge with the seam allowance of the first piece.  If you are worried that the piece won’t fit, pin the seam allowance, flip the fabric back and the unit up to the light.  MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH EXTRA FOR AT LEAST ¼” SEAM ALLOWANCE ON ALL SIDES.Sew along the marked line.  Flip the fabric over and press the seam with a dry iron.

 

5. Fold the next seam back after you have pinned the fabric which was just sewn on.  Using a ruler, trim the seam allowance to a ¼”. Then take the next piece of fabric and line up with the seam allowance you just trimmed.  Repeat.

 

6.  If necessary, at the end, trim pieces to appropriate size.

Block 9-  Ray-diate block

(Throw Version)

Supplies:

24.5” square of background fabric

3 30” pieces of double fold bias tape of your desired width

 

Assembly:

Use the bias tape to form three rays across the block.  Pin. You can either hand sew them on or top stitch the edges down using a ⅛” seam from the edge.

 

(Mini Version)

Supplies:

12.5” square of background fabric

3 16” pieces of double fold bias tape of your own desired width

 

Assembly:

Use the bias tape to form three rays across the block.  Pin. You can either hand sew them on or top stitch the edges down using a ⅛” seam from the edge.

 

NOTE:  If you need to make your own bias tape, you lay a ruler at a 45 degree angle to the selvage edge.  Make an initial cut. Line the ruler up with the edge at your desired width (double what you want the finished width to be).  Cut. Repeat until you have enough pieces (or piece the strips to desired length). Press any seams open. Press the tape in half, then fold and press edges to center line.  

Block 7:  Squircles

(Throw Version, 12.5” x 36,5” block)

Supplies:

Brightly colored thread for basting

Thread that matches the circles being appliqued.

Pins

Sewing Gauge (Big fan of the Dritz 14 in 1 measuring gauge)

Assorted fabrics: Cut 6  circle-ish shapes with about 4.5 in diameters.  (This is a fabulous time to use some leftover charms.)

Background Fabric:  Cut a piece 37.5” by 13.5”  (You are going to trim down to 36.5”X12.5”.  Since you are handling the fabric a fair amount, you may want to have a bit extra so you can trim any fringes off at the end.)

NOTE:  You can also use a two sided fusible to fuse the circles on OR you can use a one sided fusible.  See Assembly notes below.

 

Assembly:

After you’ve cut your circles,pin them in a spacing that makes you happy (taking into account the trimming if you are doing that).  Use a bright colored thread and baste them on with a 1/4″  seam. Unpin.

Use a thread similarly colored to the circles, needle turn applique them on.  (You will use the basting thread to help you turn in a perfect ⅛” seam.) Remove the basting thread.  Trim block down to 12.5” by 36.5”.

 

Alternate assembly:  Fuse squares of two sided fusibles to the charms BEFORE you cut your squircles.  Fuse on to background according to the directions for your fusible. Then stitch around the circle using a zig zag or “sketch stitch” around the inside of the circle.

 

If you want to use a one sided fusible, cut the squircle with the right side of the charm facing the adhesive side of the fusible.  Sew around the edges with a ¼” seam. Cut a slit in the back of the fusible. Turn inside out. Fuse to the background fabric and then hand or machine sew the edges down.

 

Trim the block down.

 

(Mini Version, 6.5” x 18.5” block)

Supplies:

Assorted fabrics:  Cut 6 circle-ish shapes about 2.5” diameters.

Background Fabric:  7.5” x 19.5”

 

Assembly:

After you’ve cut your circles.  Pin them in a spacing that makes you happy (taking into account the trimming if you are doing that).  Use a bright colored thread and baste them on with a ¼ in seam. Unpin.

Use a thread similarly colored to the circles, needle turn applique them on.  (You will use the basting thread to help you turn in a perfect ⅛” seam.) Remove the basting thread.

Trim the block down to 6.5” to 18.5”.

 

See notes above for alternate assembly options.

 

 

 

Block 8: Pointy block

(Throw Version, 12.5x 24.5” block)

 

Supplies:

If using the HST ruler, cut 8 6.5” background triangles and 8 6.5” chevron fabric triangles.  

If making your own HSTs, cut 4 7.5” squares out of background fabrics and 4 7.5” squares out of the chevron fabric.  Note: You can use two different feature fabrics, in which case, you should cut 2 sets of 7.5” squares (2 each).

 

Assembly:

Using either the 2 at a time HST methods (marking the diagonal and sewing ¼” seam on either side of the line, then cutting, pressing, and trimming down to 6.5” squares or by sewing a background triangle to a chevron triangle, assemble the 8 HST blocks.  

Arrange and sew HSTs into a chevron formation.  Sew top row. Sew bottom row.

Attach top and bottom rows to the center section.  Press.

 

(Mini Version)

Supplies:

If using the HST ruler, cut 8 3.5” background triangles and 8 3.5” chevron fabric triangles.  

If making your own HSTs, cut 4 4.5” squares out of background fabrics and 4 4.5” squares out of the chevron fabric.  Note: You can use two different feature fabrics, in which case, you should cut 2 sets of 4.5” squares (2 each).

 

Assembly:

Using either the 2 at a time HST methods (marking the diagonal and sewing ¼” seam on either side of the line, then cutting, pressing, and trimming down to 3.5” squares or by sewing a background triangle to a chevron triangle, assemble the 8 HST blocks.  

Arrange and sew HSTs into a chevron formation.  Sew top row. Sew bottom row.

Attach top and bottom rows to the center section.  Press.

 

(Throw Version, 12.5” x 24.5” block)

Supplies:

Cut 2 approximately 14”x14” squares of background fabric.

You need 4 strings of varying (or the same) width, at least 14” long.

 

Assembly:

Using a ruler and your rotary cutter, cut a somewhat diagonal line on one of the background squares from the upper left side to the lower right side  Take one of the strings and insert in it into the diagonal cut (sew the string lengthwise to each side of the diagonal cut). Press.

Cut a second somewhat diagonal line on the newly sewn piece, this time from the upper right side to the lower left side.  Sew in another string. (Note: I didn’t worry about preserving the X shape perfectly since I wanted to vary the width of the strings and not lose a ton of background fabric.  If you want to try to match the X arms, I’d advise starting with a bigger piece of background fabric. You can use a pin at ¼” from the edge to flip back and check to see if your X arms line up and then sew.)

Repeat with the remaining strings and the remaining background square.

Trim both blocks to 12.5” and sew together.

 

(Note:  Feel free to improv the crosses smaller or use more negative space.  This block was meant to be more improv-y. Just make sure you end up wiht a 12.5” x 24.5” block when you are done.)

 

(Mini Version, 6.5” x 12.5” block)

Supplies:

Cut 2 approximately 8”x8” squares of background fabric.

You need 4 strings of varying (or the same) width, at least 8” long.

 

Assembly:

Using a ruler and your rotary cutter, cut a somewhat diagonal line on one of the background squares from the upper left side to the lower right side  Take one of the strings and insert in it into the diagonal cut (sew the string lengthwise to each side of the diagonal cut). Press.

Cut a second somewhat diagonal line on the newly sewn piece, this time from the upper right side to the lower left side.  Sew in another string. (Note: I didn’t worry about preserving the X shape perfectly since I wanted to vary the width of the strings and not lose a ton of background fabric.  If you want to try to match the X arms, I’d advise starting with a bigger piece of background fabric. You can use a pin at ¼” from the edge to flip back and check to see if your X arms line up and then sew.)

Repeat with the remaining strings and the remaining background square.

Trim both blocks to 6.5” and sew together.

 

(Note:  Feel free to improv the crosses smaller or use more negative space.  This block was meant to be more improv-y. Just make sure you end up wiht a 6.5” x 12.5” block when you are done.)

 

 

Have fun!  We’re half way done with the quilt!

Block 4:  Curvalicious! blocks

(Throw Version, 2 12.5” blocks)

Supplies:

Background fabric:  Cut 2 15-16” squares.  (The block will shrink.)  

Fabric 1:  Approximately an 11” square

Fabric 2:  Approximately an 11”” square

 

Assembly:

Match up all your pieces at the lower left corner.  Free hand two curved cuts.

Shuffle your fabrics until you have two combos you like.

Sew the pieces together.  (I tend to sew with the convex curve on the bottom, no pins and align one side. Per a chat with Linda, try it BOTH ways.  She sews with the concave curve..the smaller piece…on the bottom and the bigger on the top.  Her pieces lose less fabric that way.  When I sew it that way on my current machine, I get puckers.  That didn’t seem to happen on my other machine.  I think it has something to do with how even your machine’s feed is.  So, consider this an experiment and try it one way on one block and the other on the other…you’ve got more than enough fabric to play with and knowing your preference for which feels more comfortable also isn’t a bad thing!)

Press seams toward the smallest layer.

Once your blocks are assembled, you’ll trim your blocks down to 12.5”.

 

(Mini Version, 2 6.5” blocks)

Supplies:

Background fabric: Cut 2 8.5-9” squares  (THIS IS IMPORTANT. THE BLOCK WILL SHRINK!!!!)

Fabric 1:  Approximately a 5-6 in square

Fabric 2:  Approximately a 5-6” square

 

Assembly:

Match up all your pieces at the lower left corner.  Free hand two curved cuts.

Shuffle your fabrics until you have two combos you like.

Sew the pieces together.  (I tend to sew with the convex curve on the bottom, no pins.)

Press seams toward the smallest layer.

Once your blocks are assembled, you’ll trim your blocks down to 6.5”.

Block 2:  Stripey Goodness blocks

 

Note:  My directions piece on the diagonal.  If you don’t have strings long enough, feel free to piece straight up and down stripes.  It’s your quilt, do what works best for your supplies!

SAVE YOUR LEFTOVER BITS.  YOU MAY WANT THEM FOR BLOCK FIVE!

 

(Throw Version, 2 12.5” blocks)

Supplies:

You need a variety of strings.  Aim for a variety of lengths, with at least some measuring  19-20.”

 

Assembly:

If you choose to paper piece this one, you need 2 larger sheets of newsprint that measure 12.5” square.

You can choose to use a muslin to back this one, using a 13” square to  sew onto.

You can also choose to free piece this one and trim the block down to 12.5”.  You may wish to starch the strings to prevent stretch.  If you’ve cut the strings on grain, this should not be a problem.

If you paper piece or piece to muslin, you can glue stick your first strip to the paper or muslin.  Start by laying your first piece on the diagonal of the square.  Sew to each side of the center strip, using a ¼” seam.  Press each seam as you go for the flattest block possible.  Trim the block down at the end.

You should have 2 12.5” blocks.

(Mini Version, 2 6.5” blocks)

Supplies:

Collect strings of various sizes.  Strips should range in length of 10”-5”.  

You can either paper piece this one or improv it.  

 

Assembly:

If using standard piecing, sew strips together.   You’re aiming for a square with the strings set on a diagonal(ish) format.  You can press seams open or to one side.  Feel free to starch the strings if the bias makes you nervous.  Trim each block down to 6.5”.

If you are paper piecing, start with 2 6.5” squares of paper.  You can glue stick your first strip to the paper.  Sew the strips together using ¼” seams.  If you have an add a quarter ruler, you can use it to trim.  If paper piecing, leave the paper on and trim blocks down to 6.5”.  Do not remove papers until block is sewn in.

Block 1: Checkerboard block

 

(Throw Version, 12.5” x 24.5” block)

Supplies:   (18) 4.5 in squares

 

Note:  You need 18 4.5 in squares.  You can choose how varied you want this to be.  If you are doing a 2 color block, for example, cut 9 of one color and 9 of the other.

 

Assembly:

Layout your squares into a rectangle that is 6 rows of 3 squares each.

Sew  6 rows of 3 blocks each in a layout you find pleasing.

Then sew the 3 block rows together.

Your end result will be a 3×6 rectangular quilt block that measures 12.5”x24.5”.

 

(Mini version, 6.5” x 12.5” block)

Supplies:  (18) 2.5” squares.

 

Assembly:

Layout your squares into a rectangle that is 6 rows of 3 squares each.

Sew 6 rows of 3 blocks each in a layout you find pleasing.

Then sew the 3 block rows together.  (You can press open or nest, as you prefer.)

Your end result will be a 3×6 rectangular quilt block that measures 6.5”x12.5”.