(Throw Version, 12.5” x 24.5” block)

Supplies:

Cut 2 approximately 14”x14” squares of background fabric.

You need 4 strings of varying (or the same) width, at least 14” long.

Assembly:

Using a ruler and your rotary cutter, cut a somewhat diagonal line on one of the background squares from the upper left side to the lower right side  Take one of the strings and insert in it into the diagonal cut (sew the string lengthwise to each side of the diagonal cut). Press.

Cut a second somewhat diagonal line on the newly sewn piece, this time from the upper right side to the lower left side.  Sew in another string. (Note: I didn’t worry about preserving the X shape perfectly since I wanted to vary the width of the strings and not lose a ton of background fabric.  If you want to try to match the X arms, I’d advise starting with a bigger piece of background fabric. You can use a pin at ¼” from the edge to flip back and check to see if your X arms line up and then sew.)

Repeat with the remaining strings and the remaining background square.

Trim both blocks to 12.5” and sew together.

(Note:  Feel free to improv the crosses smaller or use more negative space.  This block was meant to be more improv-y. Just make sure you end up wiht a 12.5” x 24.5” block when you are done.)

(Mini Version, 6.5” x 12.5” block)

Supplies:

Cut 2 approximately 8”x8” squares of background fabric.

You need 4 strings of varying (or the same) width, at least 8” long.

Assembly:

Using a ruler and your rotary cutter, cut a somewhat diagonal line on one of the background squares from the upper left side to the lower right side  Take one of the strings and insert in it into the diagonal cut (sew the string lengthwise to each side of the diagonal cut). Press.

Cut a second somewhat diagonal line on the newly sewn piece, this time from the upper right side to the lower left side.  Sew in another string. (Note: I didn’t worry about preserving the X shape perfectly since I wanted to vary the width of the strings and not lose a ton of background fabric.  If you want to try to match the X arms, I’d advise starting with a bigger piece of background fabric. You can use a pin at ¼” from the edge to flip back and check to see if your X arms line up and then sew.)

Repeat with the remaining strings and the remaining background square.

Trim both blocks to 6.5” and sew together.

(Note:  Feel free to improv the crosses smaller or use more negative space.  This block was meant to be more improv-y. Just make sure you end up wiht a 6.5” x 12.5” block when you are done.)

Have fun!  We’re half way done with the quilt!

Block 4:  Curvalicious! blocks

(Throw Version, 2 12.5” blocks)

Supplies:

Background fabric:  Cut 2 15-16” squares.  (The block will shrink.)  

Fabric 1:  Approximately an 11” square

Fabric 2:  Approximately an 11”” square

Assembly:

Match up all your pieces at the lower left corner.  Free hand two curved cuts.

Shuffle your fabrics until you have two combos you like.

Sew the pieces together.  (I tend to sew with the convex curve on the bottom, no pins and align one side. Per a chat with Linda, try it BOTH ways.  She sews with the concave curve..the smaller piece…on the bottom and the bigger on the top.  Her pieces lose less fabric that way.  When I sew it that way on my current machine, I get puckers.  That didn’t seem to happen on my other machine.  I think it has something to do with how even your machine’s feed is.  So, consider this an experiment and try it one way on one block and the other on the other…you’ve got more than enough fabric to play with and knowing your preference for which feels more comfortable also isn’t a bad thing!)

Press seams toward the smallest layer.

Once your blocks are assembled, you’ll trim your blocks down to 12.5”.

(Mini Version, 2 6.5” blocks)

Supplies:

Background fabric: Cut 2 8.5-9” squares  (THIS IS IMPORTANT. THE BLOCK WILL SHRINK!!!!)

Fabric 1:  Approximately a 5-6 in square

Fabric 2:  Approximately a 5-6” square

Assembly:

Match up all your pieces at the lower left corner.  Free hand two curved cuts.

Shuffle your fabrics until you have two combos you like.

Sew the pieces together.  (I tend to sew with the convex curve on the bottom, no pins.)

Press seams toward the smallest layer.

Once your blocks are assembled, you’ll trim your blocks down to 6.5”.

Block 2:  Stripey Goodness blocks

Note:  My directions piece on the diagonal.  If you don’t have strings long enough, feel free to piece straight up and down stripes.  It’s your quilt, do what works best for your supplies!

SAVE YOUR LEFTOVER BITS.  YOU MAY WANT THEM FOR BLOCK FIVE!

(Throw Version, 2 12.5” blocks)

Supplies:

You need a variety of strings.  Aim for a variety of lengths, with at least some measuring  19-20.”

Assembly:

If you choose to paper piece this one, you need 2 larger sheets of newsprint that measure 12.5” square.

You can choose to use a muslin to back this one, using a 13” square to  sew onto.

You can also choose to free piece this one and trim the block down to 12.5”.  You may wish to starch the strings to prevent stretch.  If you’ve cut the strings on grain, this should not be a problem.

If you paper piece or piece to muslin, you can glue stick your first strip to the paper or muslin.  Start by laying your first piece on the diagonal of the square.  Sew to each side of the center strip, using a ¼” seam.  Press each seam as you go for the flattest block possible.  Trim the block down at the end.

You should have 2 12.5” blocks.

(Mini Version, 2 6.5” blocks)

Supplies:

Collect strings of various sizes.  Strips should range in length of 10”-5”.  

You can either paper piece this one or improv it.  

Assembly:

If using standard piecing, sew strips together.   You’re aiming for a square with the strings set on a diagonal(ish) format.  You can press seams open or to one side.  Feel free to starch the strings if the bias makes you nervous.  Trim each block down to 6.5”.

If you are paper piecing, start with 2 6.5” squares of paper.  You can glue stick your first strip to the paper.  Sew the strips together using ¼” seams.  If you have an add a quarter ruler, you can use it to trim.  If paper piecing, leave the paper on and trim blocks down to 6.5”.  Do not remove papers until block is sewn in.

Block 1: Checkerboard block

(Throw Version, 12.5” x 24.5” block)

Supplies:   (18) 4.5 in squares

Note:  You need 18 4.5 in squares.  You can choose how varied you want this to be.  If you are doing a 2 color block, for example, cut 9 of one color and 9 of the other.

Assembly:

Layout your squares into a rectangle that is 6 rows of 3 squares each.

Sew  6 rows of 3 blocks each in a layout you find pleasing.

Then sew the 3 block rows together.

Your end result will be a 3×6 rectangular quilt block that measures 12.5”x24.5”.

(Mini version, 6.5” x 12.5” block)

Supplies:  (18) 2.5” squares.

Assembly:

Layout your squares into a rectangle that is 6 rows of 3 squares each.

Sew 6 rows of 3 blocks each in a layout you find pleasing.

Then sew the 3 block rows together.  (You can press open or nest, as you prefer.)

Your end result will be a 3×6 rectangular quilt block that measures 6.5”x12.5”.